BREAKING: The new kids on the block demand your attention.
Un-harrowed by too many years in the industry, developing talent is always exciting to watch progress. Designs and inspirations from fashion newcomers are unapologetic and daring, and if the right amount of know-how is there, the result can be a collection of something truly refreshing. Exquisite millinery and deconstructed guitars were just two of the delights that walked the runway at the Art Institute of NYC's show at Lincoln center, and if this show was any representation - the industry has some bright new stars to look for in the upcoming years. Every collection was beautiful - but a few highlights are detailed below.
Isaac's tri-colored collection in maroon, black, and white featured a minimalist approach to textures and design. Long-line shirts with angular leather accents paired with trousers and backless A-line dresses with blazers showed a dedication to structure while keeping the overall feel of fluidity. Favorite look: A black, maroon, and white blocked blouse, slim black pant, with maroon and black leather neoprene cropped top.
When it comes to color choice in a collection, playing it safe and classic means the yin and yang of black and white. Hysong lit the rule book on fire for her pieces, and sent out bright turquoises, hot pinks, and lime green down the runway. While this could have easily come off as chintzy, the bright color was contrasted by well-tailored structure and restraint in the more fluid garments where it is easy to over-detail. Favorite look: Turquoise open back trapeze dress with hot pink bandeau.
Jennings' training as an architect played a leading role in the design process for his collection, titled Facades. Wanting to create a tromp l'oeil effect that combined "dimension and volume without the weight of layers", Jennings fused the structure of tuxedos with the airy nature of silk, jersey, and satin for a collection of looks that were as visually pleasing as they were well-crafted. Favorite look: Black and vanilla gazar tuxedo blouse with gold paisley jacquard trouser and milk chocolate double-faced silk satin cape coat with hand-crocheted ribbon scarf.
Va-Va-volume, theatrics, and an exploration of hard and soft textures made Doyle's looks hard to take your eyes off of. A sea of expertly pleated, tucked, and ruffled organza dresses and blouses ebbed and flowed up and down the runway with effortless air. Atop the charmeuse and taffeta skirt gowns, cigarette pants and organza blouses was the piece de resistance: custom millinery by Joshuan Aponte. Cloche hats with trailing feathers and dramatic wide-brimmed ruffled hats added the perfect extra dimension. Favorite look: Black organza waistcoat with long train and oversized collar.
Nu-Mode´ Coverage Melody Burdette
Photography Elvia Gobbo