The “Rotterdam” Collection, presented by Scandinavian brand Ivana Helsinki, struck an interesting mix of hits and misses. The show began with a short video campaign for the collection, which posed their models in high, sleek buns alongside elderly women in matching hairstyles. The concept was engaging, if not slightly confusing, but was unfortunately followed by one of a few disappointing looks. The first model to hit the runway wore a “bleached denim dress with ruffle layered hem” that looked every bit as bad as it sounds. I felt like immediately disliking the first outfit was a bad sign, but a few bold ensembles really won back my affections. A-line hems, rounded necklines and oversized buttons added a touch of whimsy to the collection, balanced by structured knits in bold colors and patterns.
There were a few big patterns that were used throughout the collection, including a “Rotterdam” print of the collection’s namesake, and I really wasn’t excited by any of them. There was one really dynamic (if not a tad used) splatter-paint style print that I thought was effective, but otherwise I felt as though there were a lot of really beautiful silhouettes that would have made more of an impact without their chosen graphics. The collection featured 36 total looks , so though there was a very distinct theme felt throughout the show, there was also a lot of range. Dresses came out in everything from cotton to silk to lace, alongside knit cardigans and swingy, high-energy coats. Overall the “Rotterdam” collection felt playful, accessible, and sadly, a little uninspiring.
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NYFW Coverage Alexandra Stevens